Botanical Oils and Herbal Extracts for Afro-Textured Hair Growth: A Tailored Narrative Review of Recent Evidence (2020–2025)
Abstract
Afro-textured hair requires specialized care due to unique structural features, including elliptical follicles, tighter curl patterns, high fragility, and increased susceptibility to mechanical breakage. Conventional pharmacologic therapies for alopecia—such as minoxidil and finasteride—do not address breakage or moisture imbalance, which are major contributors to perceived hair loss among individuals with Afro-textured hair. This narrative review synthesizes research from 2020–2025 on botanical ingredients commonly used in Afro-diasporic hair care: henna, amla, fenugreek, ginseng, aloe vera, capsaicin-containing peppers, chebe, and additional evidence-supported oils such as rosemary, pumpkin seed, black seed, and neem. Particular emphasis is placed on length retention, scalp barrier health, and anti-inflammatory activity, which are essential for supporting growth in Afro-textured hair. Evidence suggests that botanicals such as amla, rosemary, pumpkin seed oil, red ginseng, and black seed oil have the strongest modern clinical or mechanistic support for hair growth, while henna, chebe, fenugreek, and aloe vera improve breakage resistance, scalp hydration, and the conditions necessary for retaining length. More rigorous research and trials including Afro-textured hair participants are needed.
Introduction
Afro-textured hair is uniquely vulnerable to dryness, breakage, and mechanical stress. These factors—rather than follicular miniaturization—account for much of the “hair loss” reported in the Afro-diasporic community. Protective styles, while culturally significant and beneficial when used correctly, may increase traction forces and inflammation when misapplied. Therefore, plant-based oils and herbal extracts used traditionally across Africa, the Caribbean, and Afro-Latine communities remain highly relevant due to their ability to seal moisture, reduce friction, soothe inflammation, and protect the hair shaft.
Medical dermatology has only recently begun to examine these botanicals in rigorous trials. This review focuses on contemporary evidence (2020–2025) for herbs widely used in Afro-centered hair rituals and modern natural formulations.
Henna (Lawsonia inermis)
While often known as a dye, henna’s tannin-rich profile makes it valuable for strengthening Afro-textured hair. A 2024 mouse study found that henna flower extract reduced androgen-driven alopecia comparably to 5% minoxidil (Kanwal et al., 2024). Though human trials are lacking, henna’s ability to bind to keratin, reinforce the cuticle, and reduce breakage aligns with length-retention needs in Afro hair. Henna does not grow hair from the follicle but helps the hair that does grow remain intact.
Amla (Phyllanthus emblica)
Amla is emerging as one of the most evidence-backed botanicals. A high-quality triple-blind RCT demonstrated increased anagen-to-telogen ratios and improved satisfaction in women with androgenetic alopecia after 12 weeks of supplementation (Akhbari et al., 2024). For Afro-textured hair, amla’s antioxidant profile, scalp-calming effects, and ability to reduce shedding make it especially valuable. Amla-infused oils have also been shown to improve shine, softness, and friction reduction—key for textured hair.
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum)
Fenugreek contains proteins and nicotinic acid that support scalp circulation and cuticle reinforcement. Studies from 2020–2024 show improvements in hair fall, shaft smoothness, and breakage reduction (Faisal et al., 2024). These properties directly support length retention in Afro hair, which loses length at the ends long before follicular growth is ever an issue.
Ginseng (Panax ginseng)
Among all botanicals, red ginseng has some of the strongest mechanistic data. Studies (2021–2025) show that ginseng:
stimulates dermal papilla cells
prolongs anagen phase
upregulates IGF-1 and β-catenin
increases follicle size and density (Truong & Jeong, 2021; Jung et al., 2025)
For Afro-textured scalp conditions, ginseng’s anti-inflammatory actions are particularly relevant, as inflammation is a major but often overlooked factor in traction alopecia.
Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis)
Aloe supports scalp hydration and barrier repair—critical for Afro-textured hair prone to dryness. A 2025 review found aloe-enhanced formulations may reduce hair loss and improve scalp conditions (Zhu et al., 2024). Although not a primary growth stimulant, aloe optimizes the environment necessary for healthy growth and reduces inflammation associated with tight styling.
Capsaicin (Capsicum spp.)
Capsaicin stimulates TRPV1 receptors, increasing IGF-1, a key follicular growth factor. Studies from 2023–2025 show both promise and risk: low-dose capsaicin may stimulate growth, but high concentrations can irritate the scalp—an especially important caution for sensitive Afro-textured scalps.
Chebe (Croton zambesicus–based blends)
Chebe is culturally significant in Sahelian communities and widely used for length retention, not follicular regrowth. Modern analysis shows chebe works by coating the hair, reducing friction, and maintaining moisture. Dermatologists agree it is not a follicular stimulant but is excellent for reducing breakage—one of the biggest barriers to length in tightly coiled hair.
Additional Botanicals Relevant to Afro Hair
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
A 2025 randomized clinical trial (Patel et al., 2025) confirmed rosemary-based formulas significantly improve hair count and shaft thickness. This aligns with earlier findings that rosemary oil performs similarly to 2% minoxidil. Rosemary also reduces inflammation—important for traction-related scalp stress.
Pumpkin Seed Oil (Cucurbita pepo)
Evidence supports pumpkin seed oil as a mild 5-α-reductase inhibitor. Recent reviews frequently cite its ability to improve hair counts and density in androgenetic alopecia. For Afro-textured hair, it is also deeply emollient and excellent for sealing moisture.
Black Seed Oil (Nigella sativa)
Black seed oil reduces inflammation, supports follicular health, and has antimicrobial effects beneficial for protective style maintenance. While clinical trials are limited, mechanistic studies show anti-androgenic and antioxidant potential.
Neem, Mint, Clove, Amla, Brahmi, Moringa
These Ayurvedic and Afro-diasporic botanicals support scalp circulation, reduce microbials, soothe inflammation, and improve moisture retention—addressing issues highly relevant to Afro-textured hair.
Relevance to Afro-Textured Hair & Protective Style Culture
Afro hair’s primary challenges include:
breakage from tight curl pattern
dryness due to difficulty retaining sebum
friction from protective styles
traction-induced inflammation
Botanical oils work by:
sealing moisture (pumpkin, sunflower, avocado)
soothing inflammation (black seed, aloe, neem, rosemary)
strengthening the cuticle (henna, fenugreek, chebe)
stimulating follicles (amla, ginseng, rosemary, capsaicin)
Thus, botanical oils align with the true biologic needs of Afro-textured hair, especially when protective styles are worn.
Conclusion
Recent research supports the growing role of botanical oils as adjuncts in hair growth, especially for communities with Afro-textured hair. While minoxidil remains the most evidence-based pharmaceutical option, botanicals such as amla, rosemary, pumpkin seed oil, red ginseng, black seed oil, and fenugreek show compelling benefits for scalp health, breakage reduction, and in some cases, hair density.
Henna, chebe, aloe, and Ayurvedic herbs fill a crucial role by improving moisture, elasticity, and strength—key for visible growth in textured hair.
Future clinical trials must explicitly include Afro-textured participants and evaluate botanical oils within cultural practices such as protective styling.